First Jedediah Smith Trail 1822 — 1824

Day 14: August 29th, 2009 Cedar Pass (Badlands National Park)

Although the coffee seems to have no big impact on me, I needed the restroom two times during the night. But even though a coffee in the evening feels good, especially if you can enjoy it outside. Around half past seven I get up and make myself ready for the day. First I think about driving down to the restaurant and hit the road immediately afterwards. But it is not worth driving these couple of yards. So I walk to my breakfast place.

The hostess and my server are the same as yesterday. Now I understand why they are not open late in the evening. If this is all only one shift they already have a long working day. I order a Rancher breakfast which is the usual breakfast with bacon, eggs, hashbrowns and toast.

Around half past nine I pay and walk back to my cabin. At ten I am finally ready to leave and drive first to the Visitor Center. Just when I start to see everything there is a sizzling noise and the power is out, everything is dark.

Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD

So I postpone my Visitor Center visit and start with visiting the park itself first. First I drive to the Cliff Shelf Trailhead. There you get the first impressions of the Badlands. I take a lot of pictures and am really fascinated of the bizarre landscape. In Montana, I have been in a similar landscape. There have been also badlands. And during my drive through the Great Divide Basin, I have also seen these landscape shapes. Since then, my truck is rusting like hell. There must have been some kind of acid in this soil, which literally eats my truck away…

Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Deer, Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Deer, Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Deer, Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Cliff Shelf Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

But around here I drive on paved roads through the badlands. And the hiking trails are partly made of wood and partly gravel in a very pretty way. On my hike, two Japanese guys, who seem to live in the USA, ask me if I could take some pictures of them. He has a real expensive Canon, almost a wall unit. Sure I will do that and I do my best that they get some nice shots. They say thank you and we hike on. The trail offers again some nice views of this bizarre landscape before I am back at the parking lot.

Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Cedar Pass, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Cedar Pass, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Cedar Pass, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Window Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Then I drive on to the Window, Door and Notch Trail. First I start with the Window Trail, which is a very easy hike. But also this one offers very nice views. The Notch Trail is the more difficult one, Because I am not sure about the weather, I hike the Door Trail first. This one is also build nicely with wood and “Wheelchair Accessible”. However, at the end of this trail you can hike freely over the badlands to a nice viewpoint in a canyon. The hike is easy. You should just have good hiking boots. If possible, you should put this hike on your list, no matter how much time you have planned for the badlands.

When I am back at my truck I eat one of my nutrition bars. This time I try the other one and I am really amazed, that it is not so extreme sweet like the ones, which I had the last couple of years. Seems like you also slowly get around here something reasonable to eat.

Because the weather looks some sort of okay I take a sweater and poncho with me, just to be sure. Equipped now with a poncho and the sweater tied around my hips, video bag with water bottle, snack, GPS, mobile phone and watch and finally my photo bag I start my hike. Ah, and my video camera is already mounted on my tripod. Pretty much packed I start hiking.

Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Door Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

First I start with the Door Trail. There I have again fantastic views of the badlands. The landscape is really impressive!

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Then I continue with the Notch Trail. The beginning is just a regular hiking trail where you should just have solid shoes. The start looks really harmless until I reach the spot where it is really going up the hill. There are now round planks mounted on a steel rope in a distance of one step up this hill. The beginning is not very steep. But at the top it goes almost perpendicular up. And this on such a weak ladder which shakes extremely. I have my two camera bags and also the tripod with my camera. Therefore I have only one free hand to hold on!

This is definitely a bit risky, because when I will fall down from up there I will surely break a couple of bones. But I still take my chances. The beginning works quite well. But at the steep part it is getting really severe. There I am missing one hand to have a reasonable three–point–holding like when doing mountain climbing. First, I hang both video bags crosswise around my neck like a cartridge belt from Rambo. Then I will at least not loose these bags. Then I continue slowly and very carefully. After every step up I must carefully re–balance.

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Eventually I am at the top and I am more than happy that I was able to make it. The downside now is, that it is always more easily to go up than down. And up I barely made it. But for now I better do not think about this. I continue my hike. Also here, you should have a good head for heights because you hike along a very steep hillside. One wrong step and you slide at least 100 yards down the hill…

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

But I am also able to manage this and finally reach the end of this trail. While the trail itself already has very nice views into the canyon, the end of this trails opens up with a view to a new giant canyon with a unique landscape. After I have enjoyed these views and took many shots and videos, the way back starts.

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Up to this suspicious ladder everything is absolutely fine. But there things turn now really bad. I hang my bags again around my neck like a cartridge belt and hold on with my right hand while trying to reach the next plank with my feet. This is really difficult and it costs me a lot of strength and body effort to go down like this. I am only able to make it by pressing my knee against the upper plank to have kind of a halfway hold. The steep part feels to be endless until the incline is so low that I can turn around and walk down the planks normally.

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Man, I am really glad when I am back down on the ground. But then, immediately the next bad surprise is waiting for me: Due to the extreme body effort my thighs are completely overstrained. I am just able to avoid a cramp and stop walking for a while. I give my muscles some time to relax and finally I am able to start walking again very carefully. But as soon as I start to put a bit more load on my left thigh it starts again and the thigh almost wants to cramp.

Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD
Notch Trail, Badlands National Park, SD

Very carefully I walk back to the parking lot. The trail back seems to be suddenly endless for me now. It looks like that I will have to cancel my Saddle Trail finally! Hopefully I have recovered by tomorrow for a longer hike. Back at the parking lot I first take some time to recover.

Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
White River Valley Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Big Foot Pass Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD

Around 2pm I am finally ready to leave. Because I am now no longer be able to do some hiking I hook up my laptop. I depart and turn around first. I drive on the Loop Road through the park. There I stop at all the viewpoints.

Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Panorama Point, Badlands National Park, SD Panorama Point, Badlands National Park, SD
Panorama Point, Badlands National Park, SD
Burns Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Burns Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Burns Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Conata Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Conata Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Conata Basin Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD

While doing so I think about where I can place myself in the evening for a nice sunset shot. First I like the Burns Basin Overlook pretty well.

Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Dillon Pass, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Dillon Pass, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Dillon Pass, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 240, Badlands National Park, SD
Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Ancient Hunters Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Pinnacles Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD Pinnacles Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD
Pinnacles Overlook, Badlands National Park, SD

But the Conata Basin Overlook offers way more interesting opportunities. Therefore I plan to drive to this spot.

Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Roberts Prairie Dog Town, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rim Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rim Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rim Rd, Badlands National Park, SD

Even with these many stops I still make good progress. Because it is not even 5pm when I reach Sage Creek Rim Rd I decide to drive this road today. Obviously, I make another stop at Roberts Prairiedogtown, that is pretty sure!

Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, Badlands National Park, SD
Sage Creek Rd, SD Sage Creek Rd, SD
Sage Creek Rd, SD

Then I am able to proceed really speedy. There are only the Badlands foothills to see, which alternates with green areas. Therefore I don’t have these many stops now. All in all, I must be at the restaurant not later than half past six. Otherwise I would have no dinner.

CR590/Sage Creek Rd, SD CR590/Sage Creek Rd, SD
CR590/Sage Creek Rd, SD
Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD
Highway 44, Badlands National Park, SD

But what is really worrying me is my gas gauge level. This one is currently dangerously close to “E”. When I am finally back on Highway 44, I check with my software if there is any gas station close by. But in the village of Scenic, nothing shows up. Therefore I skip this detour. I have no other choice than to drive on to Interior. According to my map, there should be a gas station.

Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD Highway 44, SD
Highway 44, SD

Indeed, I arrive there with approximately two gallons of gas left. But it seems that the gas station is already closed. And the price of $2.75 per gallon is really ripping people off. That is $0.30 more than elsewhere! So I continue driving and maybe fill in my spare gas cans tomorrow. Or I only take a couple of gallons because getting the gas cans out is really a pain in the ass. There I must get out everything!

This is something I must think about tomorrow. Now it’s time to go to the restaurant. It is just before 6pm. Therefore I decide to drive to my cabin first to clean myself at least a little bit. Now I am feeling way more better. Then I walk over to the restaurant. Around a quarter past six I arrive there and receive again a nice window table. Also today the same people have the shift. That is almost unbelievable. And the hostess seems also to remember me. Again, I have a sirloin today, whereas the medium is again medium well. But okay, in compensation the vegetables are better today. Instead of beans and peas they have today carrots. This tastes now way better.

Just before seven I pay and they wish me a “See you tomorrow!” It seems that I am already a regular customer for them…

At the reception I quickly ask for some more coffee and they hand me even two packages over. This lady is really nice. I walk back to my cabin and make a coffee first. Then I get my laptop, sweater and coffee and go to my bench outside. Only the flies are a bit annoying out there. Beside that it is really comfy to write everything outside. Today I have neighbors at both side. The other neighbor asks if I have wireless connection. But I must negate this. Beside this, it seems he is not really interested in a conversation. Well, then I write on…

At a quarter past eight it is already so dark that I am not able to reasonably proceed with writing and I go inside. There I remember that I have almost no drinking water left. Therefore I go to my car again. And then I have the idea to check if I have some radio reception. But also the MP3 player is still in the car in my jacket. Therefore I go outside once again to get my player. But I am able to only receive one radio station, which definitely does not play anything Country.

Therefore I start again the player in my laptop and keep my music playing while writing my diary. Just before nine I have finished writing everything and I am able to take care of my video and pictures. This time I did a lot of video taping. So it takes some time until I have reviewed everything. Then I quickly make a backup of all my data before I am ready to go to bed around half past eleven. I really don’t understand why it is already again so late…

The next day is in preparation…

  • Sights
  • —
  • General
  • Breakfast: Cedar Pass Restaurant, Cedar Pass
  • Dinner: Cedar Pass Restaurant, Cedar Pass
  • Motel: Cedar Pass Lodge, Cedar Pass
  • Distance: 162 miles
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