First Jedediah Smith Trail 1822 — 1824

Day 17: September 1st, 2009 Custer — Hill City

Map Custer to Hill City

Like the last days, I wake up in the night and need the restroom. But without my coffee I would fall asleep while writing down my diary. Around six in the morning I wake up again. I assume, there was some noise somewhere. Then I wake up again a couple of times until I finally get up around a quarter past seven. I get myself ready and pack my stuff into the truck.

This time I leave at the correct entrance door. But I am not able to get in there. So I must go once again via the main entrance. Back in my room I quickly wash my hands because I have checked the oil level. But this should be fine. The reading is still at half of the dipstick level.

Then I am checking out. Just when I am getting ready to leave with my car the employee calls me from my former room window: I have forgotten my bag with toothbrush and toothpaste. And this happened even when I have been carefully looking around before I left. But this already happened to me in the past. I say many thanks and leave the motel.

For breakfast they recommended to choose Baker’s Cafe. They are around for already 20 years. So I will try my luck there. To my surprise I even find a parking spot directly on Main Street. This is again one of these original American restaurant in western style with a lot of wood and a huge counter. I receive a table way back in the restaurant. In exchange I have a real nice server. The food is plenty and the price reasonable. This is a restaurant to remember!

Highway 16A/89, Custer, SD

Highway 16A/Stockade Lake Dr, SD

Around 10am I pay and load my truck with Laptop and camera. Then I drive over to the gas station at the corner.

Highway 16A/Stockade Lake Dr, Custer State Park, SD

Afterwards I drive into Custer National Park. There I must indeed pay an entrance fee. For $6 I am allowed to enter and leave the park for one week. I say thank you for the information. Then I have my first stop at Stockade Lake.

Bison, Highway 16A, Custer State Park, SD

I decide now not to take Highway 87 and the county road but follow Highway 16A further. To my surprise, a bison is suddenly standing in the middle of the road.

Highway 16A, Custer State Park, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, Custer State Park, SD

Donkeys, Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, Custer State Park, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, Custer State Park, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, SD

The highway takes me to Iron Mountain Road — and through a small herd of donkeys.

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, Scovel Johnson Tunnel, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, CC Gideon Tunnel, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, Doane Robinson Tunnel, SD

Highway 16A/Iron Mountain Rd, SD

Then I must drive through three small tunnels. There only one car is fitting in and they are directly behind a curve. There you have no chance to see if someone is approaching. You can only tentative move forward. In Germany you would have a mirror hanging around…

But I make it through the tunnels — without any damage. The road runs through a beautiful landscape with a lot of curves and some inclines and declines. There I turn on both of my fans for the first time because the coolant temperature is slowly reaching 210 degrees. Also the oil temperature is approaching this temperature. This seems to help because the temperature is not rising further. Then the road already starts to run downhill.

Unfortunately, there are also many people driving on the road who mistake a backroad with the Interstate. It seems they must reach new speed records. As good as possible I let them pass me. But most of the time they are sitting three inches behind my tailgate…

Highway 244, Mt. Rushmore, SD

I reach the turnoff to Highway 244 which takes me to Mt. Rushmore. There is a huge road construction going on. But this does not really slows things down. When reaching the parking area, there is a surprise: Now I know why they charge $10 just for parking: There are fee stations like on the Interstate with several lanes and someone pointing you to a lane. Then they ask for your type of vehicle and the registration state, which will be printed on the parking ticket. This one is valid for one year. Well, that does not really help me much. Then they guide me to parking area 6. Well, hopefully he has seen that I have a lot of stuff on top of my roof and has sent me to an upper level. But to my relieve, everything is fine and I am able to park almost directly at the main entrance, perfect!

Mt. Rushmore National Monument, SD

From the parking lot you can already see the four heads. I immediately take the first picture before I start my hike. First you walk through a sea of flags, one for every state at a pole and a short statement when and in which order this state was added. Then you reach the amphitheater. From there you have the first real view of Mt. Rushmore. I look for a nicer spot with some pines in the foreground and encounter the old viewing platform. This spot looks way better and I take my pictures from there.

Then I am following the hiking trail to the heads. The simple, straight trail is blocked by a construction area. So I am only able to hike the one with the steps. But also from there are some nice views of the four heads. Then I am hiking all the way back. On my way back I make a stop at the sculpture exhibition where a Ranger talks about the history of Mt. Rushmore. Originally, it was planned to show them down to their hips. But due to World War II they had to give up this plan. After this, they have not been working on again. Also there should have built a cave inside Lincolns head where they planned to put in all the foundations of the US like charter and similar documents. The idea was that you learn everything about the four most important presidents (Washington = Founder, Jefferson = Louisiana Purchase, Lincoln = Preserver of the Union, Roosevelt = Founder of the National Parks) and then you can learn everything important about the US and their foundation. But this idea was not granted by congress and so there is only this huge hole on the back of his head where they store the 4th of July fireworks.

Mt. Rushmore National Monument, SD

Borglum Statue, Mt. Rushmore National Monument, SD

Then they tell you a lot about working on the heads. The workers were sitting on timber hanging on ropes, secured by a leather belt and equipped with a 45 pound jackhammer forming the heads. Then they did the finer work with Hammer and chisel. Finally they smoothed the surface with another air powered utility. What was really amazing is how they knew directly in front of the rock how deep they have to go in and where. For this, they have built replicas of the heads, which are tall as a man. On these replicas the workers took the shapes with closed eyes and then transformed it to their work. That is unbelievable!

Equipped with this new knowledge, I walk back to my car. Now I am driving back to Highway 244 first.

Highway 16A/Winter Rd, Keystone, SD

Then I take Highway 16A to Keystone and from there I am driving on Highway 40 to the Thunder Gold Mine.

Big Thunder Gold Mine, Keystone, SD

There I join a tour where you learn something about working in the mine. Unfortunately, I have the bad luck to receive a bored, young tour guide. The other guide would have been much more funny. But okay, so I concentrate on taking pictures and videos. At least he has no problem being video taped. Before the tour starts, everyone receives a plastic helmet. First I think to myself, how ridicolous is this. But after I have hit one of the low hanging timber, I know why.

I am able to get some nice shots. But doing video and photo all by myself is a bummer. This cannot be done reasonably. You can either do the one or the other or when doing both not reasonably. Because I need both, I am forced to make some compromises. Finally, the tour is over. It was very informative, but has lost a lot due to the bored tour guide. Also it is all way too touristy for me, just like the Wind Cave. This was also too much tourism. Funnily, I meet here a couple, who is from Pennsylvania. They have seen my license plate and now want to know from where I am. I explain them, that I am originally from Germany. But my truck is registered over here, near Pittsburgh. They are also from this area, just north of Pittsburgh. When I ask further, they tell me from Cranberry. Great, I am from Warrendale. They live just 4 miles north of Warrendale. Small world!

Then I take Highway 40 back to Keystone and continue to CR323.

CR 323/Old Hill City Rd, SD

Next to CR323 is running the 1880 Train, an old steam engine. The road runs many times over the railroad and one time the train is even approaching me. However, it is exactly at a spot where I have backlight and I am not able to get a good shot. Originally, I also planned to take a ride on this train. But due to lack of time I decide to skip the train ride.

Now I continue to Hill City. This is where I will stay overnight.

Wades Gold Mill, Hill City, SD

But before I continue further to Wade’s Gold Mill. There I receive an exclusive tour. You can definitely tell how they put their heart and soul in it to build this up. And from a lot of stuff, that others have thrown away, the Wade’s have build new machines. And as a “Working Museum” they took old machines from the early 1900s and refurbished them. Very impressive they first explain how everything works and then they finally really start these old machines.

Bob Wade & Cousin, Wades Gold Mill, Hill City, SD

I am really amazed how they got everything running. After the tour I have a chat with Bob Wade, the son of the Wade’s. They passed away in 2001 and he runs the mill now in summer times together with his cousin. Actually, he lives with his wife in Alabama. In the past she has always joined him. But in the meantime she has health issues and is no longer able to be here. That’s also the reason why they are looking for a buyer of this mill, which is not really easy. I wish them both luck and take a picture of them before saying good–bye.

Then I am driving back to Hill City. The motel is directly at the Main Street on which I reach Hill City. This drive was almost too short to have started the laptop. I check in and receive a room on second floor, unfortunately not the top level. Also the room is at the very beginning. Hopefully, it will not be too noisy. The reception lady in Custer was much nicer.

For having a steak I should walk over to the Alpine Inn. I take a look at the restaurant on the Internet and decide to give it a try. Usually, I don’t go to restaurants, which reminds me of my home place. But they have low priced fillets over there. This is something I must try. Accordingly crowded is the restaurant. Even when it is already half past seven the waiting is approximately 15 minutes!

Well, that is still acceptable. But so many people in this small village is really amazing me. I would have assumed more customers at the Dark Horse in Custer than around here. But well, the 15 minute waiting turn out to be only a bit more than 5 minutes waiting. Then I receive my table. The restaurant shows a lofty style and you can only choose between 7oz and 9oz fillets for dinner. The salad is just a quarter of a head of lettuce with some ranch dressing poured over. Okay, so it is how they achieve this price.

Nevertheless, it is still pretty funny. The filet is not bad, whereas I had better filets in the past. But for a price of a sirloin it is still way better than a sirloin! Around nine I pay and walk back this half block to my motel. In my room I first prepare some coffee because it will be a long night again. All in all, I have to check all of my video taping.

First, I write my diary. This keeps me busy until a quarter past ten. Then I start working on video and photo. My bookkeeping has been done quickly before dinner as well as checking my emails. Around midnight I stop working on the videos. There are still 1.5 hours missing. I quickly copy my pictures from the photo. Then I go to bed. I am really wondering when I will have a chance for a good night’s rest again…

And shortly after I went to bed I put my ear plugs in that I am really able to sleep. It is to say that it is not so quiet around here…

Sights
Custer State Park / Iron Mountain Road (Fee $6)
Mt. Rushmore (Parking $10)
Thunder Gold Mine (Fee $8)
Wade’s Gold Mill (Fee $8)

General
Breakfast: Baker’s Cafe, Custer
Dinner: Alpine Inn, Hill City
Motel: Super 8, Hill City
Distance: 62 miles

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