First Jedediah Smith Trail 1822 — 1824

Day 32: September 16th, 2009 Dillon — Hamilton

Map Dillon to Hamilton

As already suspected, I totally sleep in and wake up not before eight in the morning. Now I must hurry up to get myself ready and put all my stuff into the car. A brief view at the oil dipstick shows me that I am almost at the upper mark. It seems that I have slightly overfilled my truck yesterday.

During checking out I ask for a nice breakfast place and they recommend Granny’s Kitchen just next to the Best Western motel. It seems that this is also a small chain restaurant. All in all, I have been to another one in Wyoming. I say thank you and hit the road. At the restaurant, I receive a very good breakfast and also a good coffee service after asking for more once.

BUS15, Dillon, MT

I–15, MT

Then I drive over to the next gas station and around a quarter to eleven I am finally back on the road.

I–15, MT

First, I take I–15 South again.

Highway 324, 45th Parallel, MT

At the exit to Highway 324 I leave the Interstate and drive over to Clark Canyon Reservoir.

Clark Canyon Reservoir, MT

Shoshoni Rd, Clark Canyon Reservoir, MT

Highway 324, Clark Canyon Reservoir, MT

Now during daylight time, I can try to find the spot again, where I have stopped back in 1999 for taking pictures. And indeed, I am able to find this spot again. But I am not able to get there like in the past! Now I must drive through half of this Recreation Area. The parking lot is no longer next to the main highway like in the past. Also the direct access has been totally removed. Nothing shows you where the original setup was. No wonder that I was not able to locate this spot yesterday evening. I take my pictures and do my video taping before I drive back to Highway 324.

Highway 324, MT

Lemhi Pass Rd, MT

Cattle, Lemhi Pass Rd, MT

On this one I drive to the Lemhi Pass exit, where I arrived yesterday. But this time, I take Brenner Road to the north and follow the Nez Perce Trail to the north through the Big Hole Divide, like Jedediah Smith back then.

Brenner Rd, MT

Bloody Dick Rd, MT

I plan to drive along the foot of this mountain range further north.

Bloody Dick Rd, MT

Bloody Dick Rd, Bloody Dick Creek, MT

Bloody Dick Rd, Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest, MT

Bloody Dick Rd, Bloody Dick Creek, MT

On Bloody Dick Road, I reach the Beaverhead Dearlodge National Forest.

FR181/Bloody Dick Rd, MT

Bloody Dick Rd, MT

For a short distance, this road turns to be Forest Road 181.

Bloody Dick Rd, MT

Skinner Meadows Rd, MT

The road takes me through a forest before I reach an open plain.

Skinner Meadows Rd, MT

Berry Creek Rd, MT

Soon I leave the well maintained gravel road just past the Big Hole Divide. Now the road turns to be an extreme rocky 4WD Trail. But it is still quite good to drive on.

Berry Creek Rd, MT

Berry Creek Rd, Berry Creek, MT

Berry Creek Rd, MT

Also the creek crossings are still manageable. But suddenly, the road is blocked by timber and you are routed to a different road. First I think, it will be fine. But then the road runs through a slough, which you can still circle around. But then you must drive through a muddy meadow. It is almost impossible to see the trail and on the other side I first make a stop to give myself a chance to find orientation. I have been ending up now on a completely different trail. This one will not reunite with my original planned route, but runs deep into the mountains. There might be a chance to hit my original planned route later, if everything works out well. But I am pretty sure, I will run out of time.

Berry Creek Rd, Berry Creek, MT

88 S10 Blazer, Berry Creek Rd, MT

Berry Creek Rd, MT

Skinner Meadows Rd, MT

Therefore I don’t want to take any chances and drive back the same way — which also means that I must drive again through this muddy meadow and the sloughs. But I am able to make it back safely to the main forest road. Just before I reach this road, I inspect my car to see if the rocks have left any damage. Despite all this smashing sounds, it seems that everything is fine — thanks to my lift kit! But on my crossbar is hanging half of the meadow. Well, maybe it will fall out when it is drying out.

Skinner Meadows Rd, Big Hole River, MT

Skinner Meadows Rd, MT

Now I continue on the “official” forest road along the Big Hole River.

Skinner Meadows Rd, MT

Highway 278, Jackson, MT

This one takes me to Highway 278 and to Jackson.

Little Lake Creek Rd, Big Hole River, MT

Little Lake Creek Rd, MT

Once again I make another attempt to reach my backroads. But also this time, private property locks me out.

Peterson Ln, Big Hole River, MT

Highway 278, MT

Therefore I must drive back to Highway 278 to continue in northern direction.

Highway 278, MT

Originally, I planned to make another attempt to drive on a forest road along the mountain foothills. But this was already in question during my tour preparation. And the decision point, where I know if I can drive this road, is more than 10 miles away from the highway. Because the gravel roads around here are extremely rocky and I am afraid to damage all my gear in the truck, I would not be able to drive faster than 10mph. Therefore I skip this plan and continue on the main highway to Wisdom and take Highway 43 from there.

Highway 43, MT

FR106/Bitterroot-Big Hole Rd, MT

Here, I am really making good miles. Finally, I reach the exit to Forest Road 106.

FR106/Bitterroot-Big Hole Rd, MT

On this one I drive alternately through open plains and forest.

FR106/Bitterroot-Big Hole Rd, Trail Creek, MT

FR106/Gibbons Pass Rd, MT

Dusky Grouse, FR106/Gibbons Pass Rd, MT

Finally, the incline to Gibbons Pass starts. A sign warns you that only the first 9 miles are suitable for regular passenger cars. This is the road up to the pass. The road around here does not have these big rocks in the road. So it is a real pleasant drive. Also the truck temperature stays somehow in a reasonable range. While doing offroading before, I was again forced to turn on the heating. I am really happy when I have installed the other radiator fan in this truck! Hopefully, my engine will make it while always running up to 240 degrees!

FR106/Gibbons Pass Rd, MT

I arrive at Gibbons Pass and quickly take a picture of the pass sign. Then I try to remove half of the meadow with a stick, which is still stuck in the front of my truck. This is really a hard job. But after a couple of minutes, the worst is removed.

FR106/Bitterroot-Big Hole Rd, MT

Then the downhill ride on the other side of the pass starts. Also here warns another sign, that the road is not suitable for regular passenger cars, RVs and trailers. But it is not really this bad. If you watch out on the road, it is still driveable with a regular passenger car. The rocks are not this big and also the washouts are manageable. The biggest challenge might be the timber remnants, where other trucks have been driving over.

It looks like there was a huge fire past 2001, when I have been driving this pass in the other direction. Back then, all the road up went through a beautiful thick forest. Now, there are only burned tree trunks. Beside that, the road runs down not too steep in serpentines. All in all, it is quite pleasant to drive. It doesn’t take too long until I arrive down in the valley, even when taking a lot of pictures on this downhill ride. Whereas, not too long means that I was driving around 10mph, which is first gear and a little bit of gas.

Edwards Rd, Bitterroot River, MT

Edwards Rd, MT

E Fork Rd, MT

Highway 93, Bitterroot River, MT

Bighorn Sheep, Highway 93, MT

Bighorn Sheep, Highway 93, Bitterroot River, MT

Highway 93, Bitterroot River, MT

Finally, I reach Highway 93 near Sula. After a short drive on this highway I see some bighorn sheep on the road — and when passing by, another one runs through the shrubbery. Unfortunately, I am not able to take a picture of this one. It’s the first time I see this animal in the United States! The horns are really impressive!

Highway 93, Bitterroot River, MT

Highway 93, MT

Highway 93, Darby, MT

On Highway 93, I continue to Darby.

Old Darby Rd, Rock Creek, MT

Old Darby Rd, MT

Old Darby Rd, Bitterroot River, MT

Old Darby Rd, MT

At Darby I continue on Old Darby Road, where I had good memories regarding the views from this road. First, I am really questioning this. But after the road has crossed the highway again it takes me up the hillslope. And then there is a stretch, from where you have a real nice overview of the valley. There, I also take some pictures today, whereas the sun is already pretty low. All in all, it is already seven in the evening!

Now I must slowly start to hurry up to arrive in Hamilton. But this town is not very far from here.

When the road ends, I am back on Highway 93 and continue from there. Now I am driving the last stretch to and through Hamilton. The Super 8 is located at the northern end of town. There I receive a room on second floor, whereas they almost gave me a two bed room. The reception lady thought, that the guy behind me is also traveling with me. But no problem, I was easily able to clarify this.

Thanks to my AAA discount, the room rate is also lower. She tells me as dinner recommendation to try “The Edge”, which has salad, steaks and burgers. I say thank you and put my stuff into the room. Because it is almost eight in the evening, I immediately hit the road. Just to be sure to arrive there, before they close for tonight. First, I mix up the restaurant with the Dairy Queen at the corner. But then I realize that it is way more down the road.

So I was still able to find it and realize, that they have a huge liqueur and wine store. On the right is the restaurant on a grand scale with a giant bar and sport TVs spread all over the place. And of course, the national sports game American Football is running on all of them.

I order a sirloin, which is almost as good as a filet! Around here, they really have great steaks. There, you can really forget the Outback and all the other restaurant chains! First I had my doubts, if I would be able to find something reasonable for dinner in a small town like this. But it would have been too far to drive all the way up to Missoula. Anyways, this is now really perfect.

Back in my motel, I receive another recommendation for breakfast. The restaurant is called “The Kitchen” and has good and well sized breakfast for an affordable price. They are famous for their giant pancakes. There, she always wanted to take a picture of her daughter with this pancake.

I say thank you for this recommendation and hope to not forget the directions until tomorrow. It would be to main street, then turn right and then at the next (2nd) it is on the corner to my left. We will see…

Back in my room, I first hook up my laptop and log into the Internet. This is one of the motels, where you really need a password which is totally cryptically. Nevertheless, it works on the first attempt and I first check my emails. Then I start writing my diary and listen to my CDs while doing this. It is already eleven in the evening when I have finished writing, charging all my accessories and checking the location of the Montana Silversmith (it seems that they are really along my way!).

Now I must download and check all my pictures of today. Then I am eventually able to go to bed. Like the last couple of days, I skip checking my video taping. Slowly it is getting tight again with my tapes. Due to all my offroading, I video taped much more than originally planned. And I will not pass a Walmart soon. Currently, I will drive around Missoula. Well, we will see…

Also today, I prepare my ear plugs because there is a power unit making a lot of noise around here. I am really wondering, when I will be able to sleep without ear plugs again…

The next day is in preparation…

Sights
Clark Canyon Reservoir (Free)
Gibbons Pass (Free)

General
Breakfast: Granny’s Kitchen, Dillon
Dinner: The Edge, Hamilton
Motel: Super 8, Hamilton
Distance: 194 miles

Go back to day 31

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