Sullivan, Clinton and Broadhead Trail 1779

Day 14: September 16th, 2000 Syracuse — Utica

Yesterday I passed a Denny’s on my search for a restaurant. I decide to give it a try for breakfast today. It tastes like always — no special ups or downs. Just a decent meal to start the day.

It’s half past eight when I pay and start my trip. My first destination is the Clark Reservation State Park. I put on my sweater and take the raingear with me — just in case. The weather still does not look promising. I am really glad that I have not been driven to Niagara Falls this weekend as originally planned.

Glacier Lake, Cliff Trail, Clark Reservation State Park, NY

I start my hike on the Cliff Trail. I have great views over the Glacier Lake from this trail. The lake got its name from the Wisconsin Ice Age, which has been around here 10,000 years ago. There have been also some fossils found in this park from this time.

There are a couple of nice views of the lake from this trail. The first trees already get the fall foilage. This must be great during the Indian Summer in a couple of weeks around here. But I cannot wait this long and hike on — always having a close eye on the clouds: Hopefully it will not start to rain…

Long Trail, Clark Reservation State Park, NY

I turn onto the Long Trail from the Cliff Trail. At the end I follow the Big Buck Trail. Just at the beginning of the Dry Lake Trail it starts to rain. At first a little bit but then it’s really getting heavy. I am glad to have my raingear with me. But there is no chance for video taping any more. I store my camera away and cover myself for the rain. Then I run back to my car. First along the Lake Trail and the last leg is along the Mildred Faust Trail to the parking lot.

When I arrive the rain is not as heavy anymore. And when I put my camera on the car pod the rain is almost over. But now I will not return for another hike…

Hoag Road, Rome, NY

I drive to the east on Highway 173. I make a stop at the gas station in Chittenango and drive on Highway 5 to the east up to Oneida Castle. There I take Highway 365 with a little spur along the Hoag Road and a rusted bridge over the railroad to Rome.

Fort Stanwix, NY

My next destination is Fort Stanwix in downtown Rome. The fort has been originally build by the British in the year 1758. It should replace three smaller forts which secured the river roads to the Great Lakes during the French and Indian War. The fort is named for his erector: Brigade General John Stanwix. But it did not play a big role anymore. After the British invaded Canada the fort has been given up in 1763. It was only used as center for Indian Affairs. In 1768 they signed the contract with the Iroquois which opened the western settlement. When the revolution started in 1775 the Americans recognized how important it would have been to defend the Mohawk Valley. But it took until mid 1776 before they started to rebuild the fort.

Fort Stanwix, NY

Col. Peter Gansevoort received the order to build the fort in spring 1777. At the same time where rumors around that two big forces are on their way. One from Canada to the north under the command of General John Burgoyne. The other from the east along the Mohawk Valley under command of General Barry St. Leger. They would probably arrive in summer. Because of these informations Gansevoort doubled his efforts to make the fort with his 1000 men defendable.

Fort Stanwix, NY

The army of St. Legers with 1700 men, half of them Indians, started on July 26th in Oswego. They reached Wood Creek by the end of the month. The official siege started on August 3rd, after Gansevoort declined the british request to surrender the fort with disrespect. He built a small command under Lt. Col. Marinus Willett, his second commander. This group approached the camp of St. Leger to get clothes, weapons and papers of the British and to kidnap St. Leger.

Sleeping Quarters, Fort Stanwix, NY

There they heard from prisoners that a cruel fight has happened at Oriskany with General Herkimer who wanted to help Ft. Stanwix. But before these news have arrived at the American headquarter in Albany, Major General Benedict Arnold was on his way to help Ft. Stanwix. This message of a big American force on their way to Ft. Stanwix also reached the besieger around St. Leger. This message and the death of some leaders at Oriskany caused the Indians to desert.

Suttlers Shop, Fort Stanwix, NY

Officers Quarters, Fort Stanwix, NY

St. Leger had to admit on August 22nd that the fort was not as easy to take as he first hoped. This forced him to flee back to Canada. Two months later General Burgoyne also had to give up and surrendered his army at Saratoga. This was one of the crucial actions during the American war of Independence. The fort then had been manned until 1781 but it never again played an important role.

Courtyard, Fort Stanwix, NY

Officers Quarters, Fort Stanwix, NY

The fort is nowadays almost completely restored. One of the highlights is the demonstration of the old muskets. Two reenactors in original clothing explain the history of the fort and how these old muskets are working. And you really get an idea how difficult it was to fire these old guns: Sometimes they needed three approaches for one shot, whereas the heavy wind might have added some extra difficulties. All in all it was a very interesting demonstration of both actors.

Officers Quarters, Fort Stanwix, NY

Barracks, Fort Stanwix, NY

And my tripod really payed back. Last year I was only able to video tape part of the demonstration at Ft. Necessity because it is difficult to keep the camera steady for more than several minutes. But this time I was able to video tape the whole demonstration from the first to the last minute — awesome!

Oriskany Battlefield Monument, NY

I have been at the fort longer than planned but the demonstration was absolutely worth it. My next destination is to the southeast, the Oriskany Battlefield. It shows one of the bloodiest fights in American History. There is a big monument at the parking lot which remembers this battle. The little Interpretative Center is only 100 yards away. A park ranger welcomes me and gives me some insight of the history.

Unknown Soldier Monument, Oriskany Battlefield, NY

General Nicholas Herkimer marched with 800 men through this area to help Ft. Stanwix in the siege. But he ran into an ambush of the British and the Indians at a small creek. Part of his men were able to flee into the woods. But most of them have been trapped in this small valley. They tried to defend themselves with all their force. General Herkimer has been wounded on his leg and died a couple of days later.

General Herkimer Monument at Beech Tree, Oriskany Battlefield, NY

But his men were able to carry him during the fight on a small hill under the “Beech Tree”. From their he was able to control the battle. This was the reason why some of his men were able to survive this fight. He was able to reorganize his troups and place them in a way where they were able to protect each other.

Bloody Creek, Oriskany Battlefield, NY

But he still lost 500 of his men. The little creek in the valley turned red from the blood of his fallen men. That’s why this battle is now called the battle at “Bloody Creek”.

Unfortunately the nice park ranger is not willing to explain everything in front of my camera. So I have to do the hike by myself. When I reach the little valley it is easy to imagine what happened during this battle. The whole area is a swamp area with high swamp plants and bushes deep into the valley. There is no better place for an ambush. I am able to catch the feelings on video and photo before it is starting to rain again. I run back to my car and continue my drive along the Mohawk Valley to Utica.

I arrive at Utica around 5pm. After a brief search I find the Motel 6. But unfortunately all non smoking rooms are already gone. Therefore I drive on to the Super 8. But like in all other Super 8 the price is still above the peak season price. I am not in the mood to search on so I take the overpriced room.

Next I drive to Wal–Mart to buy some motor oil and wipers. The old wipers already give no sight through the windshield. But when I start to mount the wipers in the parking lot, the rain starts again. Ok, this means I will have to postpone it. Back at the motel I ask for a nice dinner location. They recommend the Appleseed’s Tavern just down the road. I will give it a try.

Looking at the full parking lot it must be good. When I enter the restaurant they tell me that the waiting is around half an hour — great! But my motel is only a couple of minutes away. They put me on the waiting list and I drive back to my motel for half an hour. I start to work through my movies and prepare the trip for tomorrow. I return to the restaurant just before the half hour is over and I get a table now within a couple of minutes.

The dinner is as good as the long waiting promised. Very happy and full I leave the restaurant around half past eight and drive back to my motel.