Zebulon Montgomery Pike Trail to Red River, Mexico Journey 1807

Day 24: October 21st, 2003 Terlingua — Big Bend National Park

Today I will arrive in the Big Bend National Park, where everyone says it should be one of the most beautiful parks in the whole US. Five years ago we only bypassed the park, because we did not have the time for a visit. We only saw the Santa Elena Canyon through which we came with our river trip together with the singer duo Christine Albert and Chris Gage.

But now I will have breakfast first. Yesterday evening I saw Tracy’s Cafe, which was absolutely crowded. This one I plan to try for breakfast today. Outside the tables are all set up, but I prefer to have breakfast inside. There are already sitting some locals who look very leery at me when I say a friendly “Good morning”. Then a lady (probably Miss Tracy) tells me in a very unfriendly way that they are closed. Hey, great, how should I know when everything is set up and many cars are parked outside — but this was for me the decision to never ever visit this place again, also not in the future.

I drive on and try my luck at the Roadrunner’s Deli, where we also had breakfast five years ago. The trailer from then was replaced by a real building. But it is still a restaurant, where you have to pick up your food at the counter. At that time (just before 8am) I am the only guest and I order my usual eggs and bacon with white toast.

During my breakfast, two locals also show up who only grab some coffee and drink it outside. After breakfast I drive over to the gas station next door. There a guy from another pump started talking to me. He asks me if I am doing this for living. But I have to say no. This is only a hobby, at least for now. But you never know…

Entrance Sign Big Bend National Park, TX

Then I am on my way to Big Bend National Park. It takes only a couple of minutes to reach the entrance. I take a picture of the park entry sign. Then I drive into the park. After a couple of miles I reach the entrance fee station. The fee of $15 is pretty high. But therefore you are allowed to stay inside the park for a whole week.

Basin Junction Road, Big Bend National Park, TX

Basin Junction Road, Big Bend National Park, TX

Originally I planned to drive directly the Old Maverick Road. But as I haven’t reserved any rooms at the Chisos Mountain Basin yet and I know it might be difficult to get rooms, I directly drive up to the Basin. Now I realize the big distances. It takes me over an hour until I finally arrive at the reception. It is extremely crowded there, because everyone is currently busy checking out.

But then it is my turn and it looks like it was a good idea to immediately drive up here. For this night I get the last available rooms, which are the Lodge Type Units. The next two nights I can spend in the motel type units and the last night will be in the Casa Grande Motor Inn, which is a three story motel (or better hotel?) building.

Then I receive a small map to actually be able to find the Lodge Units. They are at the end of the basin and it takes a while, until I arrive there. Then I also have to hike for quite a distance until I am at my room. I put my stuff into the room and then I start my journey.

Gano Springs Road, Big Bend National Park, TX

First I drive this hour back to the park entrance. After all there is the beginning of the Old Maverick Road. But when I arrive there, a closed gate blocks my way. I know that this a backroad of the park. But I haven’t read that I need a special permit to drive there. As I am already at the entrance, I check at the entrance station. There they tell me, that the road is closed due to the heavy rain of last week. Best is to check at the Visitor Center. But this is another half an hour drive and on my way back I almost passed it!

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

But I have no choice. I drive back and check for road conditions there. They tell me, that all roads along the river banks are currently closed. Also I should not drive the Black Gap Road, which is no longer maintained. In other words, almost all roads are closed. Also the hiking trail into the Santa Elena Canyon is not accessible, because the road is closed due to mud slides on the road.

Homer Wilson Ranch, Big Bend National Park, TX

Sotol Vista Overlook, Big Bend National Park, TX

Sotol Vista Overlook, Big Bend National Park, TX

Nevertheless I want to give it a try. Originally I planned to drive the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive back. Because the Old Maverick Road is closed, I take now the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive down to the Rio Grande. On this way are a lot of hiking trails. One would lead down to an abandoned ranch, the Homer Wilson Ranch. But I am not sure if I will have enough time. So I only hike a small distance on these trails.

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

Eventually I arrive at the Rio Grande. There you still can see the signs of the past flooding. Then I arrive at the road closure. This is where we once took out our canoes after the river trip. There is also a parking lot where I park my car.

Santa Elena Canyon, Rio Grande, Big Bend National Park, TX

Then I take some pictures of the river. A local tells me, that the river was almost 15 feet above normal last week. You can still see on the bushes all the mud. This shows you how high the river was floating last week.

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

Now I walk down the closed road. They told me at the visitor center that I can reach the hiking trail into the Santa Elena Canyon by foot. So I give it a try. I hike for half an hour until I reach the first muddy section. It is already dried out a bit, but the mud is still almost 10 inch high. I try to make it through, but it almost takes off my shoes, when I try to walk in the almost dried out mud. Therefore I give it up and turn around.

Santa Elena Canyon, Rio Grande, Big Bend National Park, TX

Emeroy Peak, Cerro Castabello, Big Bend National Park, TX

On my way back a border patrol passes me, which is always checking the borders in this area. I would have also driven through this muddy section with my SUV. After a couple of minutes a bicycler approaches me. I warn him of this muddy section and he thanks me for this information. But he want to take a closer look at this section by himself.

Santa Elena Canyon, Rio Grande, Big Bend National Park, TX

After a quarter of an hour he reaches me again. He tells me that he hadn’t tried it. He had been here for a couple of times and it was not worth for him to risk this. Also his wife is waiting for him, where I have parked my car. He will spend the night at the campsite. We chat for a while, then he continues.

Emeroy Peak, Big Bend National Park, TX

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

Tuff Canyon, Big Bend National Park, TX

Tuff Canyon, Big Bend National Park, TX

Mule Ears Viewpoint, Big Bend National Park, TX

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend National Park, TX

When I arrive at my car I get myself ready and drive back in the direction of the Chisos Mountains. On my way back I take some nice pictures of the surrounding landscape. All in all I am driving for more than one hour until I am back at the Lodge Units. The shadows are pretty long when I walk into my room.

There I hear a loud snoring from the room next to me. Hopefully this will not end up to be a horrible night- But for now I check the first part of my videos. Around half past six I drive over to the restaurant in the basin. There I have to wait almost a quarter of an hour for a free table, but therefore it is a very nice table at the window. From there I can watch the wonderful sunset while having dinner.

I pay around half past seven. When I leave the restaurant I remember that I could take some picture postcards with me. Then I drive back to my Lodge Unit. There I check the rest of my video taping and also plan the next couple of days. As the river area is still muddy, I plan to drive the roads first, which are far away from the river. Therefore I will drive to Pine Canyon tomorrow.

While I am doing my preparations, the perfect acoustic of these rooms are really getting obvious. My neighbors are playing card and even the mixing of these cards can be heard as if it would be in my room. Also the sound of knitting plastic bags can be heard like being next to me. Great, this looks like a horrible night.

Around ten I go to bed. But due to the acoustic I am not able to sleep. The giggling and not really quiet talking is extremely loud in my room. Around half past twelve I am getting really upset. I hammer with my fists against the wall. Immediately it is getting quiet. Only the lay down of the cards(!) can now be heard. What a great place to stay. I will not spend another night here at this location!

Finally it is getting quiet. But only for a short amount of time. Then the snoring starts again. After two hours another snorer joins the concert. Eventually, around half past four, I am able to fall asleep…