John Colter Trail 1807 — 1808

Day 20: September 2nd, 2005 Red Lodge — Cody

Today I sleep in a little bit. Breakfast will be at the Red Lodge Cafe. The food size is really big, but my server is a bit slow. Then I drive over to the next gas station. It seems like the transmission is shifting in cold conditions even later than when being warmed up.

Highway 212, Red Lodge, MT

Highway 308, MT

Highway 308, MT

Around ten I am ready to roll and take Highway 308 back to Belfry. At daylight you start to realize what kind of pass I have been driving over last night. In the dark you don’t really realize this.

Highway 72, State Line MT and WY

At Belfry I take Highway 72 South and cross the state line to Wyoming. In the meantime I am back in John Colter’s footsteps, which I was forced to leave last evening due to lack of time. But maybe I can make another attempt on my way back, because he also went through Pryor Gap on his way back.

Rd 8Ve, WY

Highway 292, WY

Highway 292, WY

But for now my next destination is the Clarks Fork Yellowstone River in Shoshone National Forest. First I am not able to find the forest road, which should run along the river. But eventually I find it.

Morrison Rd, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

The road itself would not be this challenging. But due to all the big stones and rocks I am forced to go as los as 2mph, sometimes even lower. A few times I even smashed the frame on some rocks. Hopefully this goes well!

Suddenly I smell transmission oil — that is not a good sign. I leave my car and see, that every few seconds a drop hits the ground. Have I damaged something here?

I crawl under my little truck and encounter, that it is dropping from the fixed transmission cooler lines, which are now connected by hoses. That is not really great to fix it with hoses. I assumed they use some strong metal connections. So I first retighten the hose clamps, because they were not really tight. In the hope that I was able to fix it, I continue my drive.

But after a short drive I must realize, that it is still dropping. It seems like it is coming directly from the upper outlet at the transmission. There is nothing I can do here for now. While I am laying under my car, two hunters show up on their ATVs, who offered me assistance. But I am able to say them, that my car is still driveable. They tell me, that they plan to hunt here over the weekend.

I say good–bye and they continue their drive, while I pack my tools back in my car. Then I also drive on. The landscape is absolutely picturesque. I definitely have to drive this road with way more time and stay over night another time!

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, WY

Morrison Rd, Clarks Fork Yellowstone River, WY

Morrison Rd, WY

Morrison Rd, WY

I continue to that point, where John Colter started his climb up Indian Hill. There I also have a lunch break. Then I start my drive back. On my way back I also meet someone, who plans to just camp here for one night.

After more than twice the time, which I have originally planned, I am back at my starting point. Unfortunately my transmission switches gears so late now, that I was forced to drive most of the distance in first gear. Whereas the revs would have been enough to switch to second. This must be changed. So I try to readjust the transmission cable while giving it names. Unfortunately it is now way too weak in shifting. But at least the transmission shifts now early enough!

Highway 120, WY

My hiking plans are already given up. So I drive back on highways to Highway 120.

The originally planned short way is not possible due to private property. Unfortunately that sign only shows up after traveling for more than five miles on gravel roads…

On Highway 120 I continue until I reach the exit for Highway 296 West, which is better known as the Scenic Chief Joseph Highway. And you can really take the “Scenic” literally. The road runs up Dead Indian Hill, which John Colter climbed on foot in winter time.

Sunset Highway 296, WY

Sunset Highway 296, WY

Sunset Highway 296, WY

Sunset Highway 296, WY

Sunset Highway 296, WY

Sunset Highway 296, WY

My destination is the point, where he approximately crossed nowadays Highway 296. Then I start my drive back. At a nice view point I have the chance to see a wonderful sunset in the mountains.

Then I drive again in the dark to my destination of today. First I take Highway 296 down to Highway 120.

From there I continue south to Cody. As I have already reserved my Super 8 motel there, I can walk over to the reception absolutely relaxed — even when today is Saturday and Labor Day Weekend. They recommend the local Chevy dealer to take a look at my leaking transmission. Unfortunately they don’t have a real transmission shop over here.

They recommend the Sunset House for dinner, which is close to my motel. They should even serve at 9pm something for dinner. So I hurry up to get my stuff into my rooom and drive over to the restaurant. It’s a quarter past nine, when I arrive there. The server explains me, that they have already closed for today. She even checks back with the kitchen if there is a chance for dinner. But everyone has already left. Anyways, she recommends going to the Proud Cut Steakhouse in town. They are open late and they are really good!

I say thank you for this great advice and drive over to the steakhouse. Indeed I am able to find the restaurant, even when it is way farther away. than what I assumed from the way description. It is in the middle of Downtown Cody. But at that time of day there are already plenty of parking spaces available. I am even able to park almost in front of the restaurant.

The restaurant has an absolute rustically interior and looks really great! Unfortunately they are already out of baked potatoes and I must go with the Steakhouse fries. But the dinner is really very good! And also the service is okay. Around half past ten I pay and drive back to my motel. There a night shift in checking video tapes awaits me. But due to being extremely tired, I am not able to check all of them today. It seems like I have to walk through the remainder tomorrow…