Lewis and Clark Trail Back Home 1805 — 1806

Day 20: August 31st, 2001 Lincoln — Great Falls

I am ready for departure around 7am. Today is the beginning of Labor Day Weekend. Because I will stay in a bigger city I use the Super 8 reservation hotline for the first time. But it was not easy for me to understand the lady at the phone. But eventually I made it to make a reservation for my single bed room in Great Falls. Hopefully the guys at the motel also know that I made a reservation. But I will figure out tonight…

When checking out I run into a very sleepy motel owner. Looks like the guests are not up this early in that area. They recommend the Rainbow Cafe just across the street for breakfast. The restaurant looks really nice. It is simple, but is this usual American Family Restaurant style you expect in a small town. It looks like Mom is running the kitchen. Also my server (I assume she is the owner) really fits the image of this restaurant. Breakfast is really big and great. It is much better than the breakfast in some of these big chains.

After this big breakfast I start my journey to the east. I don’t see a bigger gas station in this small town. Therefore I start my trail for today without adding gas. The distance yesterday was not too much and I expect the same for today. And I still have my spare gas cans, just in case.

Alice Creek Road, MT Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT
Historical Marker, Alice Creek Road, MT Historical Marker, Alice Creek Road, MT
Historical Marker, Alice Creek Road, MT
Trail Sign,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT Trail Sign,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Trail Sign,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT

First I drive on Highway 200 several miles to the east until I reach Alice Creek Road. This one follows all they way along Alice Creek. There are no bridges over the small creek but some concrete boards. I follow the road all the way to the end with nice views of the morning landscape. But the road ends in the middle of a bunch of cows. Hopefully they will stay away from my car!

I park on the side and pack all my stuff for my short hiking trail up to Lewis & Clark Pass. It is pretty cool in the morning. Therefore I take a sweater with me. If it is getting too warm I can still tie it around my hips.

The beginning is easy with a small incline through the forest. Suddenly the forest ends and I have a great view of the surrounding hills. There are no trees from now on all the way up to the pass. The more I reach the pass the more windy things get. Around the mountain pines it is almost a bit stormy. Now I am glad to have my sweater with me. The last stretch to the pass is a bit steeper but still good to hike.

Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT

At the top the mountain pines continue. But the Continental Divide has not much in common with a pass which should be in my mind more like a ridge. But it looks more like a huge plane where I have to hike more than a quarter of an hour until I reach a decline.

Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT

I hike a couple of minutes further until I realize there will be no nice viewpoint for the other side within a reasonable distance. I turn around and start my way back to the car. Now I have real great views of the valley where I have been hiking up.

Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT
Continental Divide,Lewis & Clark Pass, MT

Now I realize how far I have been hiking in this last hour. But it was worth the hike. When I reach my car again I see that everything is still alright. The cows have been getting used to my car and are no longer looking suspicious at her.

Alice Creek Road, MT Alice Creek Road, MT
Alice Creek Road, MT

I mount my camera on my car pod and drive back Alice Creek Road to Highway 200. Then I cross the Continental Divide again. This time by car on Highway 200 via Rogers Pass.

Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT

After 10 miles I reach Sterns–Augusta Road to the north. This road takes me back to Lewis’ trail. This little road is also one of the most beautiful roads I have been on. I drive always along the foots of the Rocky Mountains — the mountains to the left and the open plane and grassy hills to the right. The views are absolutely awesome!

Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Bridge Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT Sterns-Augusta Road, MT
Sterns-Augusta Road, MT

I drive into a small valley where a small river flows through. There is a really interesting bridge going over the river. I enkjoy every mile on this gravel road. Eventually this small road continues as paved Highway 435 to the small town of Augusta.

Now I follow Highway 21 which reaches Highway 200 in Simms. This is also the beginning of the Sun River. Lewis followed this river all the way to the Great Falls of the Missouri. I follow his path along Highway 200. Unfortunately there is no small highway to follow the river more closely.

Goetz Road, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Goetz Road, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Goetz Road, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT

Just past Vaughn the Ulm Vaughn Road leaves to the south. I follow the gravel road all the way to Goetz Road — yes, this road really exists! But I follow the road with my name only for a short distance before I reach the Ulm Pushkin State Park. There is the Buffalo Jump Site.

Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT

At the time where big bison herds (which are wrongly called Buffalo) were roaming the prairie the Indians used this spot to kill a huge amount of bisons easily. One brave Indian was playing the lure who was hunted by the bison herd. The Indian guided the herd in full speed to a brim. There the plane suddenly ends and continues just 150ft below. The Indian has to (still running as fast as he can because otherwise the herd would kill him) jump down to one of the small rocks below the brim. The bison, who are also running as fast as they can, usually don’t see the step in the plane and they fell these 150ft down. Even if one of the animals would have seen the brim, he would have been moved over the brim by the succeeding animals.

Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Sign, Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Sign, Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Sign, Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT

The other Indians waited at the lower plane to kill the animals who haven’t died from the fall. These animals were usually heavily hurted and it was easy to kill them. The only risky job was the one of the lure.

Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT
Buffalo Jump Site, Ulm Pushkin State Park, MT

If you are standing at the brim on the upper plane I have to admit: I don’t want to be in his role. If he was jumping a bit too far or the rock beneath broke away he will surely die.

After this journey into history I continue my way to Great Falls. I drive the road back until I reach McIver Road. I am able to follow the Sun River up to Great Falls on this road.

Now I have to find the Super 8 motel again where I have been two years ago. Back then it was almost booked. But I arrived around 8pm. But this time I have a reservation. Therefore I should have no issues in getting a room, even on Labor Day Weekend.

Thanks to my GPS I have no trouble in finding the motel again. I also know this city a little bit even when there is no big construction zone on the main street like two years ago. There are only two people in front when I arrive to check in. Then it is my turn. And the guy at the reception is really able to find my reservation. Also the room is on first floor this time! Looks like a reservation really pays back. I plan to stay here for two nights, because I want to visit a couple of places I was not able to see two years ago due to lack of time.

After checking in I get my stuff into my room. Then I look into the phone book to find a nice restaurant. I am really surprised that there is no Outback Steakhouse. But I find a Chi–Chi’s in the book, this mexican chain where I have been a couple of times two years ago. I already thought that this chain was bankrupt because I was not able to find one again. But it looks like here is still one.

I start my search along the main street. But at the location where it should be is only a casino. I drive the whole main street up and down for three times until I give up. It looks like the casino is now at the place where the restaurant once has been. The building looks like this mexican style building of the restaurant. Eventually I end up at JB’s again like two years ago. The dinner is typical Family Restaurant style — nothing great but also not bad. I pay around half past seven and drive back to my motel. There I check the video of today. Then I go to bed to be fit for tomorrow.

  • Sights
  • Continental Divide, Lewis &Clark Pass
  • Ulm Pushkin State Park, Buffalo Jump Site
  • General
  • Breakfast: Rainbow Cafe, Lincoln
  • Dinner: JB’s, Great Falls
  • Motel: Super 8, Great Falls
  • Distance: 136 miles