Zebulon Montgomery Pike Trail to the sources of the Mississippi 1805 — 1806

Day 31: September 10th, 2002 Bemidji (Lake Itasca State Park)

This is the last day of my actual journey. I already left Pikes footsteps yesterday. Now I am on my way to the real sources of the Mississippi River. But first I will need a breakfast. Unfortunately the Peppercorn has only dinner. Therefore I need my car to go for breakfast. What feels really unusual is, that I don’t have to lift my luggage in my truck.

On my drive yesterday through the city I saw a Perkins. As the last Perkins wasn’t bad I decide to give this Perkins also a try. The breakfast is really as it should be. Then I drive over to the gas station nearby. Unfortunately I missed that it is not possible to pay at the pump here. So I have to walk into the shop. As it is just nine bucks I pay cash. Then I leave for my today’s journey.

Highway 7, MN

Mississippi River, CR7, MN

On my search for the Highway 7 turnoff I drive too far and hit eventually the beltway. But this one gets me back to direction of Highway 7. On this highway I cross the Mississippi River.

CR27, MN

CR40, MN

Mississippi River, CR40, MN

I am only able to drive partly on my planned backroads. But even then I have no chance for nice Mississippi River views. Only when I pass the river on a highway I have a chance for snapshots.

Sign CR2, MN

North Entrance, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Finally I reach Highway 2 which takes me to the north entrance of Lake Itasca State Park. The entrance station is closed and you must drive to the visitor center for payments. The road through the park is really long and it takes a while to get there. But the landscape is great. The road follows the shores of the lake, from where the mighty Mississippi River originates.

After a while I reach the visitor center. There I buy my permit and get all interesting brochures for this park. Then I drive back to the sources of the Mississippi River which I had to skip in the beginning. But just in front of me I see a bus traveling on this route. So I take my time to not run into this party.

North Arm Lake Itasca, MN

North Arm Lake Itasca, MN

North Arm Lake Itasca, MN

In the area of the north arm I stop at a boat ramp. There I do my first videos and take pictures of this lake. In a distance I can already see the spot where the Mississippi River originates. Then I drive on to my next stop, a small museum. Beside me there is no one inside this small log cabin. They tell you a lot about the first settlers in this region and the Mississippi River explorers. Pike is also mentioned here and the mistake he made when searching for the Mississippi River sources.

Then I walk back to my car. It’s a good time for a brief lunch break. Beside me there is no other car, so I have a chance to eat my apple in patience. Hopefully the bus has already left in the meantime, so I can drive over to my main destination of today.

After a couple of minutes drive I reach the parking lot. A sign shows me the hiking path to the Mississippi sources. Unfortunately I forgot to put some mosquito repellent on. But I hope that the insects are already satisfied with the numerous tourists around. It’s only a short walk from the parking lot through a small forest. Then suddenly the view opens to the lake — and the sources of the mighty Mississippi River.

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

There is only a small creek flowing out of the lake. At the sources they have put some big stones in, that you can walk over the creek. I resist the temptation to do the tourist stuff too and wait patiently until everyone has left. Then I can start my video taping and taking pictures.

Marker Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River Source, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Mississippi River, Lake Itasca SP, MN

The sun is in a good position and gives the water some nice glittering. Beside the sources is a marker, which gives some information about the river. All in all I spend have an hour here. Then I hike along this small creek which will be once the mightiest river in the whole US. When the Mississippi reaches the ocean, it drains the water of three quarter of the whole US!

Mississippi River Sign, Lake Itasca SP, MN

On the round trip back to the parking lot I cross again another small river. A sign shows something about the park history. Originally there was no real river source, only a swamp area, where the Mississippi slowly formed. But the Americans didn’t liked this. They wanted to have a real source for their mightiest river. So they dammed the lake at the north side and gave the lake only one spot where it can leave the lake. While channelizing the river, they can now easily build up a nice source. Additionally they put in the stones that you can easily walk over the source.

I do some video taping of this small creek, which is almost not flowing. There I have a chance for a chat with a couple from Idaho. They also think, that I do all this for a living. Maybe I should really think about this?

Then I hike back to my car. According to my park map it should be possible to drive around the whole lake. One part is even a one way road. I definitely want to see that part. The landscape around here is really great. I am driving alternately through forests and swamp areas.

Elk Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Elk Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Elk Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Elk Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Elk Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Eventually I reach Chambers Creek which connects Lake Itasca with Elk Lake. People do not really agree on what are the real Mississippi River sources. Depending on definition some people say that the true source is at this spot. I use this nice stopover to get some more great pictures and videos of both lakes. There I also meet a bicycler who spends some free days here. He has grown up here in Bemidji, but works now as a judge in Grand Rapids. He drove with his car to Bemidji and left today in the morning by bicycle. The picture he probably has seen must have been breathtaking: He tells me that the fog just started to separate from the ground and the sun gave a great mood. As a photographer and video taper this makes me really jealous.

Aiton Heights Fire Tower, Lake Itasca SP, MN

I drive on to my next planned stopover, the Aiton Heights Fire Tower. According to my brochure it is possible to walk up to the top and have great views from up there. But it’s quite a hiking distance from the parking lot until you reach the tower.

On my way I run again into an American with two Japanese which I already met at the Mississippi River source. He tells me that it is really strenuous to climb up the tower. Let’s see how I will do. When I reach the tower I realize what he meant. At the entrance is a warning sign that people with heart diseases or who are afraid of heights shall not go up the tower. Also the maximum amount of people allowed on the tower is limited to five. But I am alone at the moment and so I give it a try.

The stairs are build by hollow punch, so you can look through the stairs the whole way down. Now I realize why people afraid of heights are not allowed on this tower. Also the wind is blowing much harder the higher you get. Additionally you can feel how the tower slightly sways in the wind.

Aiton Heights Fire Tower, Lake Itasca SP, MN

But at the top you really have great views of the whole area. The landscape is very flat, so you can see all the way to the horizon until your view is lost in haze. Unfortunately I am not able to see the Mississippi River source. The distance is too far and the tower is not high enough. But all in all it was worth the climb.

Aiton Heights Fire Tower, Lake Itasca SP, MN

I start going back down. On my way I meet a young guy, who is already almost out of breath. At the bottom I see his girl friend who didn’t climb up because she is afraid of heights. Then I walk back to my car.

Wilderness Dr, Mary Lake, Lake Itasca SP, MN

I enter my truck and drive the last stretch until I finally reach the visitor center again. There I buy some post cards to fulfill my duty in writing back home.

South Entrance Road, Lake Itasca SP, MN

Then I leave the park at the south entrance. For the way back to Bemidji I take bigger highways. First I follow Highway 200 to the branch of Highway 71 and on this one back to Bemidji.

It’s not even 4pm when I arrive at the motel again. I use the time to buy some CDs in Wal Mart. While listening to my new CDs in my motel room I write my last post cards back home.

Just before eight I walk over to the Peppercorn for dinner. Today I have no headaches and I have the chance to have some good wine for my dinner. For my usual steak I take a special one, which is roasted with whiskey. They also recommend a good wine in the menu for this steak, which I like to order. But unfortunately you only get the good wines by bottle.

But my server promises to check in the kitchen which one of the good wines is currently open. Then I could have a glass from this bottle. And lucky me she can offer a very good Californian wine. And this one tastes absolutely fantastic. I would love to take a whole carton full with me back home to Germany. It tastes way better than any of the Californian wines I have ever tried back in Germany.

I pay just past nine and walk back to my motel room. Tomorrow I will enter Canada. Let’s see how the border crossing will work out. But I think it cannot be this bad…